WALKING THE CAMINO FAQ - PART I
FAQ; WALKING THE CAMINO - Everything you need to know about walking the Camino (long document)
I was fascinated by the idea of walking the Camino.
While I was told there was a lot of info online, I found that much of it was either in Spanish or geared towards European residents.
This FAQ is a compilation of information that I would like to have had access to during my own research process. Once you get on the road, there are lots of other pilgrims to guide you on your way.
I think this info may prove especially helpful to women traveling alone, particularly those who don't speak Spanish!
Hopefully, it will be of help to anyone wishing to travel The Way.
"May the long time sun shine on you
All love surround you
And the pure light within you
Guide you on your way"
Buen Camino!
Aine
WHICH ROUTE?
There are 6 Camino Routes that I know of. The most commonly travelled one for walkers is the "French Route." It starts at Saint Jean Pied de Por on the French side of the Pyrenees mountains and continues westward across Northern Spain. It ends in Santiago. Many people go on to the coast to Finisterrae (more on this later).
WHO CAN GO?
Absolutely anyone. I met people of all faiths from Zen Buddhists to atheists.
The walk was and still is a Catholic pilgrimage route, however, I never heard religion discussed.
Pilgrims are invited to attend services at the monasteries (there's usually a municipal hostel option also (more on hostels later) but everyone seemed 100% comfortable. It really didn't matter. If there's any one thing that might stop you doing this pilgrimage- IMHO, this should absolutely not be the one.
DO I NEED TO SPEAK SPANISH?
Few, very few of the Spanish folks I met spoke any English. I spoke absolutely 'nada' Spanish. In a way it was nice, since I could zone out. If I had to do it again - I would learn the names for food items. It's a sad day when you find yourself clucking like a chicken to express your desire for eggs! More importantly, I found myself eating the same thing repeatedly, mostly because I didn't know what was on the menu!
You'll meet people from all over the world. Some speak English, some don't. It had its moments, but overall - it was fine.
BEST TIME OF YEAR TO GO?
The Camino is becoming more and more popular but not so much in the early stages of the journey. However, the month of August in Galecia (last 200kms) can be extremely crowded. I went in July and August as my schedule allowed.
Ideally, late Spring or early Fall is a really nice time to go, so that you can walk in the middle of the day.
In the height of the Summer, it's best to get out of the sun in the afternoon.
Please note that many of the hostels that house the pilgrims only open during the summer months.
A great many close during the winter. People do the walk in winter.
You just need to do more research to find out exactly which hostels are open.
HOW LONG WILL IT TAKE?
Kilometers vs. Miles.
kms. vs. miles 5 miles = 8 kms. (a km is 60% of a mile).
Quick tip: converting kms to miles.
100kms = 60 miles (in you head, figure 50% or half of 100 (50). Then figure 10% of 100 (10). Add them 50+10 = 60! Well done!
Europe is all kms - you may as well get used to it!
LONG ANSWER:
The Ten Year Plan:
I met one person who was doing the route over a ten year period. Every year she took ten days off and walked fifty miles (yes, five miles a day for ten days!). She would return each year to the point at which she had finished the previous year. It's different. However, it demonstrates that there are a variety of ways to do this!
Three year plan:
I met 13 Italians who were on a three-year plan. The walked from St. Jean Pied de Por to Burgos the first year. Burgos to Leon the second year (when I met them. In truth, they rescued me one day when I got lost!). They intended to walk from Leon to Santiago in the summer of 2008. They were all corporate types, so this worked for their holiday schedule.
Eight week plan:
This seems like a reasonable amount of time to me to walk the entire route. Many people do it comfortably in five, usually very fit humanoids under the age of 25 who always appeared to be in a hurry!
Shortening the Road:
St. Jean Pied de Por:
The 27kms from St. Jean Pied de Por to Roncesvalles is, I'm told, the most difficult and perhaps most beautiful section of the Camino. However, I decided before I left for Spain to skip that leg of the journey.
It was the right decision for me. By the end of the journey I could have managed this section but not at the beginning. I started reeeallly slowly (6km on day two - yes, that is sad!).
Roncesvalles:
You still get a really early starting point here but avoid that really difficult leg from St. Jean.
SHORT ANSWER:
You Can Start anywhere:
The truth is - you can start at any point on the Camino, but the official 'unofficial' starting point is St. Jean Pied de Por in Southern France. (800kms/500 miles from Santiago, the end point)
The vast majority of people only do the last 100kms. The reason: In order to get your 'Compostella,' from the church in Santiago - you need only walk the Final 100kms or 60 miles in to Santiago (to be clear, not any 100kms - just the last 100 into Santiago! More on this later) .
TRAINING FOR THE CAMINO?
How much and for how long?
Well that depends, mostly on how much time you can spare for the walk.
I didn't train. Or, to be more precise, I trained along the way; started out really, really easy and built up over the course of a few weeks. If you're planning on packing it in, in terms of time and milage - in honesty, you can't have it both ways.
Long story short - lots of time, training not such a big issue. You can train as you go.
If time on the Camino is an issue - training is Very important.
NOTE: The people who seem to get the most out of the journey are those who don't set deadlines.
Deadlines can lead to injury. Also, I spent extra days in some of the major cities and towns to see the sights. It made a huge difference to feel my way along and stick within the confines of what I was able to do, as opposed to plotting our a course and trying to stick to it. You may also need days of complete rest. If your muscles start to feel like cement (and they can), you simply need to stop and take a day off.
SAMPLE TRAINING SCHEDULE:
NOTE: You'll need to have gotten your training shoes (sneakers) and backpack (more on gear later)
NOTE: Galecian mountains don’t require heavy walking boots. Pyrenees might. I met people who did it both ways. I wore runners and they were great. (see the Gear section). Just remember - the socks are almost as important as the shoes.
Ursula's Story:
Ursula, who was in her 60's had 9 days to do 210kms.
Here is her training schedule courtesy of her son, who is a professional trainer.
GOLDEN RULE: An ounce on the back is 3 lbs on the foot
Ursula trained over 2 months. She got up to 1 hour daily quickly during the first month and then increased to 2 hours daily (she did miss some days)
The 2nd month, she walked with her backpack. The suggestion is that you gradually increase the weight in your pack) (more on 'packing your backpack' later)
My Story:
I didn't train. Or, to be more precise, I trained along the way. I knew I had loads of time and frankly never thought for a moment I would make it to Santiago, but I just really wanted to try it.
By way of full disclosure, I do aquasize (aerobics in the water) at least a few times a week and would be in fairly good shape, but was not necessarily a great walker and generally considered myself-non-sporty and frankly, a bit of a wimp.
Encouragement for the injured:
I had had a back operation (for disc trouble) several years before and spent many years with chronic back pain. When I set off for the walk I had a tight IT band (the band that goes from your knee to your hip .. not good). I tell you all this to let you know that walking the Camino is not like walking the Grand Canyon or other such sporty adventures! You walk fairly slowly. It's not power walking. In fact, it'll probably be the slowest you'll ever walk. One step at a time....
Encouragement for the generally unfit:
A week or so before I started the walk, I walked 2 miles along the bike path close to my home with all the 'gear' and a full backpack. After two miles, I sat down. I thought I would die!! Panic ensued since I thought I hadn't a hope! But, it's totally about pacing yourself. One lovely retired gentleman from Hungary (without a word of English), and I, were on the same trajectory for the first week or so; we were 6-10 km a day kinda people! It's amazing how fit you can get over time and what your body can do.... Bit of a revelation actually.
CAMINO ADVICE THAT REALLY WORKED.
* Hydrating constantly, starting days before I got on the plane. Saves muscle pain esp. in the early days.
* Buying a Camel Pack (water bag with a long straw that goes in the backpack. Make sure it has a value so that it doesn't leek). Mine was 1 1/2 liters.
* 3 Liters of water a day (I was on 4 for a while and was told it was too much).
* Stretching a lot and stretching at the right time. About one hour after getting on the road when the muscles are warmed up (not before you start). At any point you're waiting around for some reason - stretch.
* Using walking Poles (more on this in 'gear'). Positively could Not have done the walk without them!
* Only carrying ten (10%) percent of your body weight on your back (including water!). (if you follow the 'gear' recommendations, it can be done). For women in particular, this is crucial.
* GOLDEN RULE: An ounce on the back is 3 lbs on the foot . I witnessed the greatest difficulties (feet esp). with those folks who could not seem to lighten their load.
* Taking a magnesium soluble table daily (available at all Spanish pharmacies) Farmacia (remember this word Farma-a -see-ah)
* carrying wintergreen or some form thereof for daily use.
* 'Only do What you Can' (not what you would wish, not what you think you should, what you "can") "Your Body Knows Best"
HOW TO GET TO YOUR PREFERRED STARTING POINT:
From the US: You could fly into
* London (Stanstead) and get a Ryan Air (ryanair.com - great prices) flight to Biarritz (southern France seaside town)
ryanair map to travel points to and from Santiago: http://www.ryanair.com/site/EN/dests.php?flash=chk&pos=MYFLIGHT)
* Paris (take a train to your chosen starting point along the route)
* Lourdes a (take a train to your starting point)
* Ireland. Then Ryan Air to Santiago. Then take a bus "backwards" to your chosen starting point. (Good if you're doing the last 250k or less)
* *London (Then take Ryan Air to Santiago)