WALKING THE CAMINO FAQ - PART II
PART II - WALKING THE CAMINO
HOW WILL I KNOW WHERE TO STAY?
As mentioned, there are tons of hostels (Alberques) along the way for the pilgrims. The Way runs through several provinces. Each province provides a brochure listing the hostels and the approximate distance between each one, so you can plan, or at least tentatively plan your day in advance. Sometimes, they list the number of beds in each hostel, so you have a good idea in advance which ones may fill up early in the day.
The costs of a hostels ranged from 3 to 6 Euros (Summer 2007). Many of the monasteries were 'by donation." In Galecia, (the last 200 kms) all the pilgrim hostels are free, however, Galecia can be quite crowded esp. in July and August. Therefore, be sure to budget in a few nights at a hotel. (25-35 Euros on average). Don't forget to get your credentials stamped at the hostel, even if its full. (you'll need to show the folks in Santiago that you 'walked the walk').
There are a great variety of hostels. Some are owned and run by the towns; some are private; some are run by religious orders. The hostel in Santiago sleeps 500 people. Some hostels sleep 8. Some have coin operated washing machines and dryers (don't depend on this thought); and various other goodies. Some have almost nothing. Some offer hot milk and cocao or coffee and some bread and marmalade for breakfast; some don't do any of that. So, it's really the luck of the draw.
Almost all close at 10 p.m. and they lock the doors. So, you need to be in. Because everyone is up so early, most people are asleep by 10p.m. Someone is always sleeping or trying to sleep in these places, so most people really keep the volume down in the sleeping areas.
NOTE: You are only allowed to stay one night in a hostel unless you are ill or injured. There are a few exceptions. For example, In Leon, the monastery allowed me to stay an extra couple of nights (wanted to explore the city) for the princely sum of 6 Euros per night.
STAYING IN TOUCH WITH HOME - INTERNET
I rarely had to go more than a couple of days without internet. Leave the iPhone at home. Internet is often available at the hostels (sometimes you do have to pay to use them), and there are often internet cafes in the main towns and cities.
A NOTE ON DAY 3 OR 4
A lot of people experience day 3 or day 4 as difficult. (some people can spike a fever. For me, it was as if my body was breaking into a new phase) I say this, not so you will expect it, but that if you experience day 3 or 4 as challenging , just know that a turning point is ahead. I also found day 7 difficult and had another turning point at the 3 week mark.
WHAT IF I GET INJURED, SICK OR NEED HEALTH CARE
All the hostels are used to people suffering with minor injuries such as sore muscles that require ibuprofen, ice and rest. However, if you have a serious issue, there is health care. Having spoken with other people on the Camino, the understanding tends to be that pilgrims get free health care. The word is that there is an odd case, in very big city hospitals where you might have to pay, so you may want to check with your health insurance provider regarding foreign travel before you leave.
Most injuries that required a medical visit were usually the result of people failing to take care of blisters (refusing to lighten their backpack) and eventually needing to go an antibiotics. Many people suffer with tendonitis that can become very severe. Again, much of this can usually be avoided by proper training in advance, going at your own pace and/or resting when you need to. People in a hurry tended to be particularly prone.
THE LAST 200KMS (GALECIA)
As mentioned, this is the most crowded section of the Camino, especially during July and August, when all the school and college kids are walking the Camino. In Spain, many employers look favorably on applicants who have had the strength of mind and body to walk the Camino, so be prepared! The college kids often get up really early and arrive at their desired hostel by 10a.m. If you're getting up a few hours later; by the time you get to the hostels, they can be full.
THE CAMINO "TRAP"
Many people call this the great trap of the Camino; to spend your entire day focusing on the destination. It can defeat the purpose. I made a decision to go with the flow, and while I did end up sleeping on four chairs one night - I never regretted that decision.
In truth, even thought the last 200 kms were crowded and often, not to put too fine a point on it - annoying, they also held the greatest lessons. When I got to Galecia, I questioned why I was joining a 'crowd,' and some of us longer-term walkers seriously considered leaving the trail.
Early on in the walk, I could go a few days without meeting an English-speaking person. I could find an empty church to sing in every day. Above all, I had a deep sense of privacy. I fear that I may be making Galecia sound unpleasant. It's truly lush, green and beautiful, and it made me really appreciate the gift of water.... It was also eerily similar to the land around North Tipperary where I grew up....
But, wasn't this supposed to be a contemplative experience; a walking meditation? Perhaps it held the greatest lessons for me because it was more reflective of everyday life? People struggling, vying for beds and space; trying to stay meditative in the middle of all that was difficult. The ability to pull back from the 'rat race' or 'bed race,' which, for a while felt like a rip tide, was difficult. The young (college kids) found it virtually impossible. So, up they got at 4 a.m. and ran for the hostels....
I often found myself flat-out angry when I would see the parents of boy scouts toting hair-dryers into hostels that were really meant for walking pilgrims (To be clear, no pilgrim with a jot of sense would carry a hair dryer! It would be the equivalent of a camper carrying a power drill!
Long story short, please know that the Camino you experience in the last 100-200 kms may be very different from the experiences of those who started the journey at an earlier point. That said I've met people who did the last leg and thought it a life-changing experience!
I met a few women, who ended their walk just before going over the mountains into Galecia. They did not want to deal with the crowds. (They had walked from St Jean). Instead of going on to Santiago to get their certificates, they decided to make them for each other! Yes, there are many ways to walk the Camino.
COST
Overall, my friends from Asia told me they spent around 2500 Euros. (2007) This included flights and the full cost of the journey (St Jean to Santiago).
The European students told me they spent 1200 Euros for the journey (St. Jean to Finesterrae). That included, food, lodgings and whatever else they needed. That sounded about right to me, although, in truth, I haven't a clue what I spent.
I can tell you that meals (Breakfast 3-5 Euros; Dinner 8 t o10 Euros; and lodging; 3- 6 Euros nightly; free in Galecia, last 200 kms) was extremely reasonable. Spain in the Summer of 2007 was cheap! The understanding is that many of the pilgrims do not have a great deal of money and the Way is structured to meet their needs for the most part.
The greatest cost for me was the gear. I needed good gear to make it work (good backpack, walking poles, sunscreen clothes, etc.) Many people may have a lot of the gear already (see gear section), and the college kids were really casual about all that stuff.
BANK MACHINES
Yes, there are bank machines in the major towns and cities, but you would be surprised at the towns that Don't have them! Also, if a town on your list has a lot of hostels - don't assume it's a big town and that it will have bank machines. Many of us learned this one the hard way! Just before going over the Galecian mountains, there is a small town with three hostels - and absolutely nothing else! We assumed that since there were three hostels in a town that it would have a bank.
FINAL DAY: GETTING TO SANTIAGO
The tradition is that all pilgrims (of all faiths) go to Noon mass on the day of, or after their arrival in Santiago. It's really worth it, even though it can be crowded. Santiago is beautiful. All the museums and monuments are free and it's expected that people will spend at least 2 days there. The hostels allow for this. The modern section of the city is nice, but the medieval section, including the cathedral is absolutely beautiful! Worth a visit even if you're not walking the Camino.
GOING ON TO FINESTERRAE
Finesterra is about 50 miles (80kms) beyond Santiago. It marks the ancient end of the journey and literally means "end of the world." And, to the ancients, it was. They followed the Milky Way to the sea. They believed that this point marked the true 'beginning' of the pilgrimage since one was about to start the pilgrimage of life anew. To mark the occasion, they burned their clothes and swam in the waters there, as a type of ritual baptism.
Most of us just burned candles (have you seen the cost of the gear!) and dipped a toe or two in the water!
It's a lovely spot and has lots of tourists (sometimes they take photos of the pilgrims!).
The symbol of the Camino is the shell and the ancients used to collect them here on the beaches as a souvenir to bring home. (didn't see any on the beaches, but no shortage in the souvenir shops)
I walked it, but in truth, it's somewhat tricky since there aren't that many hostels and they're far apart. That said, wouldn't have missed it for anything. It's considered a 3 day walk, one of those days is a 35k day. By the end of the journey I was able for it, but it was still difficult. It can rain a lot in Galecia, and I found a huge difference between walking in the hot sun (with really loose muscles), and walking in much cooler, rainy weather - much harder on the muscles.....
Also, I had stopped for a few days in Santiago, and it took me a little while to get going.
For some reason, I didn't feel 'finished' when I got to Santiago. Once I got to Finesterrae, I felt I had completed the journey.
Some pals simply took the bus to Finesterrae (from Santiago) so they could enjoy the sea for a day. If you can't walk it, I would highly recommend taking the bus. It seems to me that all pilgrimages should end at the sea. Regular busses run between Finesterra and Muxia; Finesterra and Santiago, and Muxia and Santiago
GOING ON TO MUXIA
Another ancient stop on the journey, Muxia marks the spot where the ancient pilgrims used to meet their ships to sail home. It's a really tough walk from Finesterra to Muxia and I certainly didn't feel up to it. I was told that the signs were quite hard to follow and it was easy to get lost. That was the real deal-breaker for me.
I recommend taking the bus to Muxia!
SANTIAGO TO FINESTERRAE ONLY
I came across some folks who did this, mostly as an experiment to see how they might like the Camino. They often think it will be less crowded that the final 100kms in to Santiago. This is certainly true, but the people I met seemed a little lonely. Not as many people take this journey and those of us that do have usually formed strong friendships along the way and we're celebrating together.
That said, people often take a few days and do short points of the journey at any two given points between St. Jean and Finesterra, so Buen Camino!
WHEN THE WALKING IS DONE
It was suggested that I take a few days by the sea before returning to my life. It was great advice.
The bus drive back to Santiago (from Santiago and Muxia), after having walked for weeks, was positively jarring! I cannot image what it would have been like to have had to hop on a plane immediately. The speed of the bus seemed crazy; we were missing the details; what was the hurry anyway? You get the idea....
I was blessed to be able to take the time to ease back into life. For those walkers I kept in touch with, the reactions to the return to everyday life varied from 'the Camino blues," to euphoria. My experience was that I saw everything through new eyes. My overwhelming feeling was one of gratitude especially for my health and the grace to have been able to complete the journey, when many younger and stronger than I hadn't. It seemed to me that I had everything, but that I had 'carried too much on my back' for too long. I resolved to travel lighter in the future. I like to think I have kept to this.
I did find consumerism really difficult and found it hard to walk into shops. It all seemed like a form of insanity. And, even now, I find gifts of a material nature hard to accept (except chocolate - give me all the chocolate you want!). Outside of food, I don't need another thing! Managed to develop quite an aversion to material things. That said, I love my clothes, a decent car, and of course - my harp! But, that's plenty!
THE EMOTIONAL PROCESS
The prevailing wisdom is that as you walk the road and you're left only with the 'voice in your head,' you will meet you past, so to speak, as you walk the Way. There's a school of thought that speaks to the idea of holding ones memories in the body on a cellular level. When some of those cells get nudged from the exertion of walking along, they can bubble up. Based on my experience on the Camino, I would tend to agree with this idea. I was told that everyone has the exact experiences they are meant to have.
I've truly expressed enough of this through the music and the album (Celtic Pilgrimage). I had no idea I had so much say about all this until I put pen to paper (or fingers to keyboard). So, I'll look forward to hearing all about your journey and all the fruits it has brought to bear in Your life..... Buen Camino! Aine M.
ANYTHING TO WATCH OUT FOR
Everyone I met on the Camino was lovely. However, it's not Disneyland, it's Spain, and is filled with all sorts, much the same as any place else in the world. I felt safe and many women traveled alone.
As in any spot in the world - don't get into a car with a stranger, even if they claim to be 'official' or attached to an Alberque. Even when you're really tired - remember, the same rules of safety always apply.
Most of the people I met in the hostels (not the private ones) had been on the Camino and were volunteering their time during their summer holidays to help out pilgrims. It can be easy to assume that this wonderful intent applies to every single person along the way. Be smart - use your noggin! And Buen Camino!
Aine M.
USEFUL LINKS
http://www.suekenney.ca/
http://www.caminodesantiago.me.uk/
http://www.santiago-compostela.net/
http://www.backpack45.com/camino2.html
http://www.jrnet.com/travel/articles/santiago.html
http://www.ourcamino.com/
http://www.csj.org.uk/
http://www.spain.info/TourSpain/Grandes+Rutas/Rutas/Rutas/0/Camino+de+Santiago?Language=en
http://home.wanadoo.nl/petermkuiper/camino/
http://www.pilgrimsprogress.org.uk/santiago.htm
http://gaerlan.com/others2/camino/camino.htm
http://www.red2000.com/spain/santiago/index.html
http://www.caminhodesantiago.com/index3.htm
http://www.ma-design.net/spain/camino/camino_en.html
http://www.americanpilgrims.com/
http://www.caminoguides.com/
http://kellycrull.com/podcasts/el_camino_de_santiag/
http://www.paultobey.com/camino-de-santiago.html